Amphawa Market - Thailand

Last September, I discovered some news that was too good to pass up: Air Asia offered a direct flight from Tokyo to Bangkok for only ¥15,000 ($150). I managed to book within the first week of their flights starting up, and so, was able to get a small discount.

I headed to Thailand with the purpose to explore a resort area I had previously never been -- Krabi.
But before catching that connecting flight, I spent a day to explore a floating market that is popular with Thais, but not as famous among tourists: Amphawa.

Also known as the Amphawa Floating Market, people can meander along the river boardwalk exploring various food, clothing and snack stalls. It's a great place to observe Thais enjoying their weekends, and to sample local delicacies.

Various scenes from Amphawa: vendors, the river, boats, and small statues.

Hoping in a shared van from Victory Monument (cost ¥70 ~ 100 Baht one way = $3), I spent about 1.5 hours zipping along the highway to this market.

When I lived in Bangkok, I visited this market twice before with a group of friends. This time, it was nice to explore quietly on my own, take photos and eat, of course!

I found one young man selling an interesting dessert -- coconut ice cream, complete with toppings, served up in a husked out coconut shell. It was big and delicious!

 Top two photos: the coconut vendor / my coconut ice cream topped with everything! 

Three photos above: An inside side market / cat or dog paw prints / colorful lanterns 

Amphawa Market is open only on weekends and crowded with Thais. That said, there are some English signs and most vendors speak a little English, so it's possible to go without a tour group.

Also, other bloggers have mentioned the market is best after 5PM -- if you can stay overnight in the area, so do. At night, you can rent a songtao (long boat) and view the fireflies via a canal tour.

Upper Photos: A lover's retreat, cutenekko in front of a welcome sign

Bottom: Deep in the market, locks left by couples, a statue outside a cafe

Two of my favorite things in Amphawa -- sweets and drinks -- are a great deal. While walking, I sipped on ice coffee, fresh fruit smoothies, even lemongrass juice. Most light snacks and drinks cost 20 ~ 60 baht or so (60 cents ~ $1.20). 

I think this market is best for travelers who enjoy a laid-back, slow style. Allow yourself at least 3 hours for a quick exploration, 5 or more to explore everything. 

Information:

Amphawa Floating Market is open on weekends, morning until late at night. 

Access: 

• Van from Victory Monument in Bangkok (BTS Victory Monument, walk to van stand). 
• Travel time: approximately 1.5 hours. 
• Vans will depart when they have enough passengers. I waited an hour for the van to fill up.
• Cost: 70 ~ 100 baht one way.

If you wish to see the fireflies, you can rent a long boat (about 600 baht = $18). The canal tour + fireflies lasts 1.5 ~ 2 hours.

Useful sites: 

Bangkok Magazine article on Amphawa Floating Market 

Trip Advisor's site on taking vans from Victory Monument to various cities in Thailand. 

Yamato Antique Flea Market

Every month, on the third Saturday, a city which borders both Kanagawa and Tokyo prefectures, hosts a large flea market in the city center, across from the train station. I have been once or twice before; this time, I brought my camera and snapped lots of photos.

Flea markets are quite popular with both Japanese and expats living in the country. The most popular items are old kimono and obi (a highly decorated waist sash wore with the kimono). If you buy a new kimono, the price is often over $2,000! These slightly used, but still lovely kimonos sell between ¥1,000 ~ ¥5,000 ($10 ~ 50), hence their popularity.

However, I love art and objects, so my camera aimed for these. I hope you enjoy the photos.^_^

Left to right, top to bottom:
Hello Kitty hand luggage, ceramic pot, a very happy bear head, cast iron lanterns.

I love unique things and this hand-made purse caught my eye. It was made from wood, shaped in a small rectangle and when opened, revealed a simple enclosure.

In the square in front of the train station, a small stage was set up for musicians to perform. This man played acoustic guitar quite well. While I was standing and listening to the music, a very drunk, old Japanese man stumbled up to me and said "Hello! Where are you from?" and (seriously, I am not lying here) "Would you marry me?" After escaping, I wondered why blonde girls in Japan attract the worst kind of attention. ?? 

                                 

                                              Photo taken just before I was accosted by the drunk, desperate-to-marry guy

The day was about to get weirder, as I walked though the rows of stalls, I found some truly bizarre things for sale. Here is the best of the weird:

A monk talking to ... a frog. 

The piece above was incredibly heavy too. Made of cast iron, I believe, the price tag underneath said $250. The size was smaller than my hand. I wanted to know if this piece was cast as a representation of some famous Japanese folk tale, but the vendor was not very talkative. 

 A huge wooden and very phallic, statue.

I went by this piece several times and each time, onlookers were crowding around it, commenting "Scary!" and "It's huge!". It looks to be of Polynesian origin; I would guess a fertility God of some kind? I couldn't stop staring at the alien headed penis. The price tag said ¥80,000 or $800. No one bought it. 

The last item wasn't strange, but I liked it very much. I love bright colors, which is a warm relief from the many dark suits and clothes I see Japanese women wearing. This bag caught my eye. I loved all the stitching and wondered, from which country did this come? Eastern Europe? India? Thailand? I couldn't put my finger on it, which perhaps added to its appeal.

I really regret not buying this. It's cool. 

Many English language newspapers publish details regarding flea markets in the Tokyo and Kanagawa areas. Please join many locals and expats, seeking their next treasure.

Information: 

Access:
Yamato Antique Flea Market is held every 3rd Saturday of the month, rain or shine.
Open 06.00 ~ 16.00. 
Next event is Saturday, January 17, 2015 (today!!) 

From Yokohama: Take the Sotetsu train going towards Ebina. Get off at Yamato Station. (20 minutes)

From Tokyo: Take the Odakyu train going to Odawara. Get off at Yamato Station. (1 hour from Shinjuku) 

Useful websites: 

List of Flea Markets in Tokyo & Vicinity (via Japan Tourism Office) 

Yamato Promenade Antique Flea Market (information is a little dated) 

Flea Market Calendar (Japanese) 

Mount Ōyama Hiking & Autumn Leaves

In late November, I joined two other women to go hiking for the day at a famous mountain in Kanagawa. Our mission was to see the infamous red, Japanese maple leaves in full color. We were not disappointed.

Mount Ōyama is easily accessible from Tokyo or Yokohama by train and local Kanachu bus. We took the Odakyu line traveling towards Odawara, getting off at Isehara station, where we boarded a bus filled with hikers to the mountain's trail head. Mount Ōyama is not too difficult to climb; most take a cable car (two stops only) to reach one of two beautiful and very holy, shrines: the first, Ōyama Shrine and the larger, higher, Ōyama-Afuri shrine. Serious hikers can climb all the way to the summit (1,252m / 4,108ft).

Our day was marred with clouds and fog; we abandoned plans to reach the summit; instead, we enjoyed an outdoor meal at a lookout point at approximately 900 meters up.

Top row: famous red, momiji leaves, my fellow hikers + guide, a red cable car ascending.

Bottom row: collage of autumn leaves on the ground, 

a large map detailing all the hiking trails in this national park. 

After a short, 30 minute hike, we ascended using the cable car, stopping to visit Ōyama shrine. One of the train operators said this shrine had the best views of fully colored leaves. The sight was spectacular. We loved it so much, upon our later descent, we stopped here again for more photos!

Top row: A line of deities, abandoned fortune scrolls.

Bottom row: More scenes from Ōyama shrine on Mount Ōyama. 

I plan to enter several of these photos in a contest. ^_^ Wish me luck! 

Ōyama Shrine had several unique features. The first, is one which always surprises visitors upon reaching the shrine steps -- a priest can be heard blowing from a conch shell, to alert the Gods and begin prayers. The sound is quite loud and startling; at first, I honestly thought it was an earthquake alarm! (o_O)

The second, a fun activity, involves purchasing small, rounded disks made from clay. You are supposed to throw them into a circular hoop located down the mountain. It is believed that if you sail your disk through the hoop, good luck and happiness will follow. 

Top row: Guitar-wielding deity, clay disks (3 for ¥300 = $3)

Bottom row: small mochi-like dumplings sold at the shrine, the hoop, 

in which you are meant to throw the clay disks through. 

I gave the clay disks a shot, tossing mine one-by-one. In the photo above, you can see a tree to the right of the hoop -- I managed to hit that. Am I slightly lucky? My friends said I threw the strongest; one even teased me saying: "You throw like a man!" (laugh) 

Eating outdoors is always a highlight while hiking; our group of 3 enjoyed cooking on the mountain. We ate a verifiable feast compared to what most hikers brought (cup noodle) -- udon noodles with pork,  baked brownies, assorted candies and chocolates, salad and even fresh coffee. We were the envy of all. ^_^ 

Top row: sweets, including whiskey-flavored candies, my bowl of udon, brownies(!!)

Bottom row: My Chinese character "rabbit" at Ōyama-Afuri shrine, cooking udon, trail marker.

Of course, our day wouldn't be complete without a trip to the most famous shrine, Ōyama-Afuri. I only snapped a photo of the steps leading the shrine itself, as the area was quite crowded with other hikers. Why don't you visit and see it for yourself? ^_^

Top row: step to Ōyama-Afuri shrine, me and my delicious noodles. 

Bottom row: waterfall along the trail, more red leaves as seen from Ōyama shrine. 

Information:

Access:

-- Take Odakyu train going to Odawara, and get off at Isehara station. From there, you can catch a bus to Ōyama mountain (30 minutes bus - train varies based on your alighting station). Bus stop is clearly marked, follow other hikers. Get off at the last stop, which is the parking area at the base of the mountain. From there, it's a 30 minute hike up a steep hill with many stairs to reach the cable car. A cable car return ticket for one adult is ¥870 ($8). 

Travel time from Tokyo: maybe 2 hours. From Yokohama: 1 hour or so. 

Hiking:

-- The summit is quite windy & cold. Dress in layers and wear proper hiking shoes, especially if you want to climb all the way to the top. There are some toilets along the route. Near the summit, the hike is quite difficult -- you must climb over large boulders. Hiking stocks are recommended when descending. Gas burners are permitted for cooking. 

Useful sites: 

Oyama cable car timetable and price list (Japanese) 

Oyama access and parking fees (Japanese)

Mount Ōyama Wikipedia (English) 

Tanzawa-Oyama National Park Hiking information (English) 

Yamate Historical Area in Yokohama

Last November, my Dubai travel friend and I enjoyed a walking tour of a historical district in Yokohama. Known as Yokohama-Yamate, this hilly area was home to many foreign ambassadors and businessmen who moved to Japan in the late 1890s. The houses on our tour were all built after the Great Kanto earthquake of 1923, and so, are very well preserved. Currently, this district has seven houses, one tennis club, and one smaller house, all which are open to the public. Entrance is free.(!!)

The most famous home on the Yamate tour is Berrick Hall. It was designed by J.H Morgan in 1930. Until 2000, it served as a residence hall for students at nearby Saint Joseph's International School. The architectural style is Spanish, with light brown, brick arches lining the front. Inside, you can find a conservatory (where piano recitals are often held), a dining room, a sitting room and more. The best feature of this house are clover-leaf windows on the second floor.

Photos: Second floor of Berrick Hall, featuring the beautiful clover-leaf designed windows:

Yamate is also home to the very first tennis club in Japan. Located next to Yamate 68 kan ban, another restored home, this beautiful building has the original hardwood floors and warm fireplace to greet players. In the back, four courts are still open for anyone who wishes to play tennis (reservations required).

To access the tennis club and Yamate 68 ban kan,  you'll need to venture down the hill, through a park hosting part of the foreign cemetery, but it's still a beautiful walk.

Top two photos: Walking down towards Yamate 68 and the tennis club itself. 

Bottom two photos: Tea set and fireplace inside one of the many restored houses in the Yamate area. 


My friend suggested we enjoy a late lunch after our morning walk, and in one house, we couldn't resist the delicious smells wafting from the working kitchen. My friend and I ordered a French-Japanese fused nabe (stew) with two, equally unique, desserts: egg pudding and black sugar creamed fruits.

Top two photos: Outside Yamate 68, and "The lion fountain bit my finger!" (inside Berrick Hall)

Bottom photos: Fireplace in Berrick's Hall, raw egg pudding(!) and other sweets. 

Who says touring Japan has to be expensive? This is a great *free* activity to enjoy with friends. I hope you'll give it a try.

Information: 

The Yokohama Yamate Western-style buildings are free to the public; some host wedding ceremonies, as well as music recitals. Free maps are available at Ishikawa-cho train station, with a recommended walking path. Toilets and places are eat are well marked on the map. Allow 2 ~ 4 hours to walk the complete route and view all nine historical houses. 

The houses are called: 
-- Bluff No.111
-- British House Yokohama
-- Bluff No. 234
-- Ehrisman Residence 
-- Berrick Hall (must see) 
-- Bluff No. 68
-- Yamate Museum of Tennis 
-- Bluff No. 18 
-- Diplomat's House (must see -- I skipped on this tour, as I had been to this home previously)  

Access: 
JR Negishi line from Yokohama station, get off at Ishikawa-cho station. (6 minutes)
Maps at the station. 
Walk uphill to Yamate in 10 minutes. 

Helpful Sites: 

Main website (Japanese only) 

Walking tour map (Japanese - PDF - English maps are available inside the houses, just ask!)

English map showing sights in Yamate area (via Yokohama City - PDF)